FloodStop builds one automatic shut-off kit per appliance, so you cover the known failure points without cutting into the main. Each kit is a motorized valve, a control unit and a floor sensor: the sensor finds water, the valve closes that appliance's supply, and the alarm sounds. All four kits are stocked and ship from Seattle.
Water heater — 20001. A 3/4 in. NPT MIP x FIP valve that threads inline with the existing supply nipple, so the install is a union break rather than a pipe cut. The water heater is the appliance most likely to flood a house, and this is the cheapest way to stop it.
Washing machine — 20010. Two 3/4 in. 90-degree valves, one for hot and one for cold, because a washer hose fails under full line pressure with nobody home. Fits a standard laundry box.
Ice maker — 20020. A 1/4 in. compression valve for the saddle or stop feeding a refrigerator line. Ice maker lines leak slowly behind the fridge, which is why the damage is usually to the subfloor before anyone notices.
Toilet or dishwasher — 20021. A 3/8 in. compression valve, the standard fixture stop size for both. One kit covers either application.
Choosing by connection, not by appliance name. The kits are distinguished by valve size and end type: 3/4 in. NPT threaded, 3/4 in. 90-degree pair, 1/4 in. compression, 3/8 in. compression. Match the kit to the stop you are replacing and the labeled application takes care of itself.
An appliance kit protects one appliance. To cover everything downstream of the meter you want a main-line valve instead — see Flo by Moen or the Resideo L5 on the leak detection page.
Related: Water heater shut-off valves · All leak detectors and shut-off valves · Water leak detection guide
